| The name, Pizza Grille, is deceiving. Pizza is only a small
slice of the pie being passed around at the Pizza Grille location that
opened recently at the former Harding's Restaurant in Lower Allen Twp. Although
the restaurant draws its crowd for its signature gourmet pizzas, fare such as
soups, salads, entrees, pastas, desserts and bar listings fills the menu pages,
too.
This second Pizza Grille is far from a clone of the ongoing
original establishment in Lemoyne. For starters, this place is huge and seats
more than 200 in a divided dining room, at the adjacent barroom and on the
patio.
High ceilings with exposed vents add spaciousness and an
upbeat din. Paned windows create an airy feel to streamlined furnishings and
banquettes that are accented by mirrors and limited views of the kitchen.
It has been open only a month, but the place is hopping. The
room was full and some folks were waiting for a table to open up on a recent
Saturday visit. The restaurant doesn't take reservations, but the food and
quick, knowledgeable service keep lag time to a minimum.
The restaurant features an all-season patio. Garage doors
surrounding the patio open when weather permits. "We're going to add an
imported cheese plate to the menu at some point," says Doug Barry, who
owns both Pizza Grilles with wife Deb. "It'll be really nice in the summer
to sit out there with a bottle of wine and cheeses. "
For starters, nothing gets the appetite going like the
grilled eggplant roll ($5.95). This dish is also available as an entree for
$11.25. I loved this starter. It's so refreshing and clean tasting. The flavors
are separate, yet the textures merge. Twin bundles of aubergine hide an
interior of pine nuts, Romano and mozzarella cheeses and an ever-so-slightly
sweet taste of garlic. Pesto adds a shimmering Kelly green stripe over the loosely
wrapped eggplant packages, which soak in a luscious bath of tomato sauce. The
only thing missing from this perfect picture was bread to sop up excess sauce.
Texture, taste and color make this starter a must-order.
"The menu, which began with 11 pizzas and several
sandwiches and salads, has really developed itself. Everything is like a
signature item. We like creating something fun and a little out of the ordinary
like the eggplant starter," Doug Barry says.
Colorful pizzas, with an array of toppings, kept spinning
out of the busy, organized kitchen. The signature pies are creative, from
cheese steak pizza ($5.75) to seafood pizza ($9.95), which is topped with
mozzarella cheese and polka-dotted with shrimp, clams, scallops and crab.
A large, thick bed of chopped Romaine leaves is the basis
for the salmon Caesar salad ($11.75). Simply prepared salmon filet is expertly
poached but needs additional salt and pepper to enhance natural juices.
"We only serve vinaigrette dressings. There are no
creamy dressings or even cream soups. And there are no fryers in the kitchen.
We're trying to get people to eat healthier," Barry says.
Caesar dressing is eggless but still has pungency from
anchovies, garlic and Parmesan cheese. Triangular Parmesan pizza toasts sit
around the salad.
Don't think you're getting off lightly by ordering the
grilled vegetable sandwich ($6.25). This sandwich looks like it has as many
layers as the bed in the fairy tale "The Princess and the Pea."
Grill-marked summer squash, zucchini, tomatoes and tender lettuce leaves make a
mountain out of these molehill ingredients. Roasted garlic focaccia bread adds
even more springiness with its extra two-inches of height. Sandwiches come with
a small salad.
I was full by dessert but could not resist tasting the
peanut butter pie. This pie, with its telltale chocolate cookie crust, is
reminiscent of the peanut butter pie from Sophia's on Market because Sophia's
makes it. There is no willpower strong enough to combat silky-smooth and
buttery pie. Another hit is the velvety chocolate creme brulee made by
Cheesecakes, Etc. in Carlisle. Both desserts
are worth all their calories.
This second Pizza Grille just proves the point that it is a
super idea to build on a good thing.
Restaurant critic Mimi Brodeur has an extensive background
in the food business. Her reviews appear weekly.
Copyright 2005, 2006 The Patriot-News Co. All Rights Reserved. Used with
permission.
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